Beyond the Burrito: Decadent Mexican Cuisine Page 8

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Join our sophisticated foodie tour of Mexico's culinary wonders.

By: Karen Tina Harrison

Oaxaca

The city of Oaxaca is a picture postcard of old Mexico, with a shady plaza, vintage sidewalk cafés and a majestic church (Santo Domingo, now a museum). Called “the land of seven moles” for its rich variety of sauces, this southern state (also named Oaxaca) is the home of mezcal liquor, made from agave cactus. (One brand, Monte Alban, is named for the ancient Zapotec pyramids nearby.) Another top taste: tlayuda, a tortilla covered with beans, local cheese, avocado, chicken or meat and occasionally chapulines — roasted grasshoppers. The word for “without?” Sin (pronounced seen).

In a leafy neighborhood five miles from the bustle of downtown Oaxaca, Hotel Hacienda Los Laureles feels like a private estate. Its 23 rooms, done in a quiet Europe-meets-Mexico style, overlook inviting gardens dominated by sky-high laurel trees. A spa and pool are tucked away, but you’ll find them. Los Laureles’ refined restaurant has indoor and patio seating and a native Oaxacan chef known for his vibrant flavors. There’s also the option of taking a cooking class and or going to market with him (rates for the three-night honeymoon package start at $1,300 for two and include accommodations, breakfast, one dinner, a welcome bottle of champagne, a couple’s massage and
a culinary experience of your choice; haciendaloslaureles.com).